So, as all costume creators know, the key to a proper silhouette is proper undergarments. For 1850s, that includes a corset. For my Danse Libre dress, I fitted over and wore my corset from Dark Garden.
Of course, everyone has something nonstandard about their body. And although I paid a nontrivial amount for the Dark Garden corset, it realllllly doesn’t fit that well. I am kinda cylindrical, so my waist is large compared to my bust and hips. What this means, is the bust comes up way high and doesn’t sit against me. In order to get the bust tight enough, I either have to have a non-even lacing or lace the waist much tighter than is comfortable. Moral of the story, non-custom corsets just don’t work that well.
TLDR; I signed up for a 2-day corset class at Lacis in Berkely. On Saturday we cut initial mockups and planned the fitting changes.
We used Laughing Moon 100, the Dore corset. The front actually fits quite well; all the wrinkles and seams are where they should be.
The back is where I need the most changes. The gap is too big now, since it will be bigger in fashion fabric. The teacher wanted me to add an inch to each side by adding 1/4 inch to the back, side back, and side seams. Or, she said I could do it the fancy way, and split the pattern pieces down the middle and add the extra there (this is how you scale up a pattern). The benefit there is it leaves the seamlines the same, so I don’t have to rejigger those. I’ll be doing this.
By next Saturday, I need to make the changes to my pattern, and cut out all my fabric in preparation for the final fitting and initial construction. Currently the plan is for a 2-layer corset in unbleached coutil, with a little bit of lace and ribbon trim. Kinda boring, but a) historically accurate and b) fewer layers to cut out and deal with, since I also have to finish that 20s dress by Friday. The duchesse silk satin remnant in my stash can wait for corset #2.