The front fights back

And then I made some stupid cutting mistakes.

So, even though I had cut the back skirt as if this was going to be a 2-piece front, I decided to start draping the front without a waist seam. I took a 60″ long piece of fabric. I cut it in half, leaving half the width for each side. Since the fabric was still way too wide at the top (54 divided by 2 inches), I made a small cut and ripped the fabric in. Then I made a vertical cut and went to rip the fabric up. Except fabric doesn’t rip in that direction, and the fabric just continued ripping horizontally. Leaving my fabric with a big old rip in what was going to be the front.

That didn’t leave enough for me to drape the robings and front as one piece, and I really didn’t want to cut more fabric. Then I realized wtf what was I doing, since I had done the back skirt as if this was going to be a sacque with a front waist seam, so why was I even trying to drape the front in one?

Yargh.

So I went back to draping the front bodice separately from the skirts. I cut off the ripped part of my fabric, and was left with a rectangle for the skirt.

Of course, if I had thought this through, I would have cut the front skirt as a gore to begin with, the same as the back of the skirt.

I treated this front skirt the same way as the back. Hem one side for 8″ or so, to be the front of the pocket slit. Make some pleats. Baste this pleated fabric onto the bottom of the bodice lining.

18 hip pleats

I only realized a few days later that I had put one more pleat in the back half than the front half.

Because this fabric is a rectangle, I ended up with a really ugly crease in the front (since the side of the the fabric has a much longer distance to travel over the pannier, and the front just goes straight down).

19 big crease 20 extra fabricI didn’t feel like undoing the stitches, so I just folded the fabric up along that crease, and figured it would get covered when I sewed the bodice piece down. If this had been a gore, this wouldn’t have happened. Lesson for the next sacque (lol I’m already planning the next one).

Then on to draping the fronts. I don’t know what was up with this, but I hada really hard time making this work. Because of my weird cutting mistake, I didn’t have enough width to drape the robings and the fronts, so I decided to do separate robings. I don’t have any actual documentation for this, but Katherine did it, and that’s practically like documentation right? 😀

The first front draped rather normally, but the second *refused* to drape without a dart. Now, a dart is very normal in sacques (hidden under the robings), but why should only one side need it? Eventually I wrestled the second side into not needing a dart, but it took forever.

I also decided to drape the straps separately. This was partly because I couldn’t make the fabric drape a strap in one, but it’s also much a more thrifty (and period!) use of fabric. Doing the straps in one requires you to go way off on a diagonal. This way I could use a scrap (from my cutting mistakes) to drape the strap separately.

21 side drape 22 moar side

I sewed this down using a spaced backstitch on the side and bottom. The opening got a bigger running stitch, since it will eventually be covered by a robing.

And with that, it’s actually starting to look like a whole dress!

 

 

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This entry was posted in Fantasy/Scifi/Cosplay, Georgian, Lady Moiraine's Sacque Gown. Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to The front fights back

  1. Terahlyanwë says:

    Your sewing skills are amazeballs!

  2. Cassidy says:

    At least one of the sacques I patterned for The Book That Is Not Yet To Be had separate robings, so you’re good!

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